Wednesday, October 20, 2004

Hermanus & South Africa exploring. Percy Tours Update 3.

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One Saturday night I venture out to explore the night clubs in Hermanus. There is a marked difference between them all – one very trendy, plush, marble floored and serving up all manner of costly cocktails; to the dark and dirty big roomed venues that are for your “off your head” nutters; to one with a rock band playing cover versions on a small stage, in a very comfy and spacious cliff top bar.

All this I of course do in the name of research !!!! :-))))

Having now collected (and slowly read thro’) over 1000 different leaflets, magazines, flyers, brochures and adverts for local tourist businesses, I can now see more closely what’s on offer here for the discerning tourist.

Met up with a few South African friends and go to where they are camping under the stars with 30 other mad South Africans. Right on the beach, with fabulous views of the sea and surrounding mountains. The camp site evening air is filled with the delicious smell of braai cooking of all manner of meats and all handsomely washed down with afew beers.

As is traditional here, any and all sports are a very important aspect of life – so we zoom off to watch a game of rugby on TV at the local crowded pub – where the Western Province are playing against The Sharks from Durban – Western Province are from the Cape Town area and therefore the team that we all want to win – so there is much merriment when they win by 32 to 24.

For a few mornings in a row I go down to the cliff tops to spot whales (which seem to be more prolific in the mornings for some reason) – also watch many seals playing in the kelp forested sea shores, and shoals of dolphins flying thro the sea and air, which is all very humbling and magical.

Behind me on the cliff faces are a number of mad Abseilers, slowly descending over the cliff edge to the rocky shoreline below.

Well I have now been living in Hermanus Backpackers for the last 2 weeks and although its been great fun and you meet loads of interesting people, its all working out to be very costly indeed, so after a small amount of research I find myself moving into a lovely 2 bedroom self-contained cottage that has a swimming pool only 10 feet away from my front door. So organise to rent it out for October and November. This thankfully is less than half what I would have paid at the backpackers, so I am very happy about that. Plus when you live in a backpackers, you never really have any space to spread out properly; noise can be a problem when wanting a full nights sleep, as well as sometimes when you decide to leave things in the fridges, food can occasional do a magic-vanishing-act, which is obviously quite annoying.

Keep up the house hunting in the nearby areas of Fisherhaven, Onrus, Sandbaai and Vermont with the many estate agents.
It’s quite amazing how varied each house is here – every single one is completely different from the last one seen. All are detached but it’s the variety of their construction and design that is so different that makes looking around them so fascinating. Many seem to have en-suite bathrooms for all the bedrooms as a matter of course. One I looked around was currently being rented out to 11 policemen who are here to catch the Abalone poachers. So most houses are quite roomy.

Find out from the Traffic Police Dept, that I am legally able to drive a 20 seater mini-bus on my UK driving licence, without having to take any extra driving exams.
It takes about 4 lessons for someone to be ready to take the exam and these exam places are fully booked all the way up to 2005, with a new waiting list starting in Nov. for next years places. So I am relieved that I don’t have to go thro all that silliness.

As well as doing Sandboarding and Paragliding a few weeks ago - I have visited - a Quad biking company; the local beer brewery – Birkenhead Brewery; driven to the most southern tip of Africa (Cape Agulhas) to see what’s happening there – not too much really apart from a light house and a shipwreck of a Japanese trawler that rumour has it was an insurance claim job; enjoy a marvellous massage to the very posh Caledon Spa, that has a Casino, Hotel and Restaurants attached; have 2 meetings with “The Shark Man” and will be on his boat for my very 1st Great White Shark dive on Friday 15th Oct. Which I cheekily blag for free – so thats £100 saved - I will be filming and photographing that trip for certain.

Visited and have now eaten at 6 local restaurants that were recommended to me – so that leaves only another 24 to go to then; gone to 3 of the 6 wineries; the Hermanus Flower Reserve/Park; taken over 300 good pictures that will be certainly vetted b4 use on the website + videoed over 2 hours of all sorts of things.

Weds 6th OctoberWeds last week was not a good day or night as we had a storm visit that proceeded to rain non-stop and we had rivers flowing down every road. I also suddenly found out that my lovely cottage has a few holes in the roof, which made for an interesting game of run-around-for-the-biggest-saucepans-possible, for half an hour.
Luckily I discover that it is all coming thro’ one part of the roof and am thankful that none is landing on my bed, as it was in the other bedroom.
This monstrous down pour was most welcome by the locals, as the local reservoir needs to be refilled urgently and this storm made the front page of the weekly local newspaper.

2 days later it starts raining again and we all run for cover – but this only lasts half the day, for which we are most grateful.

While all this water is descending from the sky there is very little reason to go outside, so I camp myself round at the Backpackers to take on the staff at games of golf and rallying on the Playstation2 and a huge session of pool in the bar.

Eventually finish off editing and compiling the Sandboarding DVDs that I have sold to 3 customers and zoom off to Cape Town to deliver them and collect my cash.

Take part in a Pub Quiz at a local restaurant, with our team coming second and rewarded with cocktails of our choice.

Tuesday 12th OctoberWell the big news today is that after many manic days of looking at over 35 properties, I eventually find something that fits the bill, and proceed to put an offer in and get it accepted a few days later. The house buying process here is a lot less complicated and slightly speedier than the UK.

It’s a clean and tidy small-ish 2 bedroom, one bathroom with open plan kitchen/lounge/dining room detached house, which covers about 75m2. Situated on a large plot of 714m2, that has the potential and enough space to put another 3 or 4 bedroom house and a swimming pool.

Completion is planned for Jan 2005. So its now official - you ALL now have a pad to stay at when you come and visit.

The mountains are visable from the front of the house and are an ever continuous range that sweep from left to right called the Overberg.

The sea and beaches are about a 5 minute walk from the front door and the nearest shop is a 2 minute walk.

As you can imagine there’s quite a bit of space around it and an empty plot next to it. Just by complete coincidence the house behind it is owned by the owners of Hermanus Backpackers which will make for some highly entertaining evenings I am sure of that.

Wednesday 13th October
My friends Tom & Kathryn arrive from London – so they are the first “guinea pigs” for a spot of Percy Tours. So off we zoom to explore Cape Town and the local area – The beaches around Cape Town; down to Hout Bay for a great seafood lunch of lobster and monster prawns; drive down the very scenic Chapmans Peak Drive, where we spot over 14 whales swimming in Hout Bay; down to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope and thro to Boulders Beach to swim with the Penguins; while enjoying games of pool at Stones on Long Street, and good meals of ostrich, crocodile and kudu steaks at Mama Africas.
We then head over to Hermanus to stay at my place.

Friday 15th OctoberWell today’s the day that Tom & I decide to become a small snack for a few big
Great White Sharks……….aaaaaaaarrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!

So it’s up early for us – 5.30am – not our best time of the day.
So with blurred vision and fluffy heads we jump into a minibus with 4 other potential “victims” and arrive at Gansbaai half an hour later.
The boat is quite big (thankfully), with 2 decks and therefore giving you a higher angle of vision of the action. As well as a solid cage that houses 5 divers at once.

After about 30 mins the first great white shark turns up – and my are they big, graceful and fast.
Within an hour we have 6 different great whites circling the boat and the action is continuous. Saying that tho’ it is quite difficult to film them, as not only is the boat swaying about non-stop, so that you have to permanently hold-on to something solid, but each shark attack on the bait is fast and from different directions. I have therefore concluded that wildlife photography is a very patient game. Even tho' - this is one tourist activity that i will do again and again. Great fun and a marvelous experience that everyone should do.

There were 4 British scientists on board our boat, who have been surveying and studying these fabulous animals and over the last 5 years they have viewed over 1000 different Great White Sharks here – each identified by individualised markings on their dorsal fins. Their diets are not just seals, as I first thought. Seals only account for about 10% to 20% of their food. Any other slightly smaller fish, like tuna, other sharks, or rays make up the rest of their menus.
The sharks we saw were only babies of 1.5 to 2.5 metres long, as these are less experienced than fully grown adults that can reach lengths of up to 4 or 6 metres.

Also as of 3 days ago, the Great White Shark has now been listed as an endangered species, which means that every single country in the world is now banned from fishing them (but thats obviously extremely differcult to police.)
They have been protected in South Africa and Australian waters for over 15 years and are very much appreciated by the local sea-fishermen as they keep the seal numbers down. Seals as we all know love to eat tons of fish that we humans also like to have on our plates, so fishermen are all for Great White Sharks munching on a few seals.

I will most definitely be doing many more shark trips as I find them such fascinating creatures.

Hope you are all very well, Love to all and more adventures from South Africa soon.

Cheers

Percy “Shark Bait”

www.percytours.com

Designer Tours of Hermanus, Cape Town and the Western Cape region.

Saturday, September 25, 2004

Hermanus, South Africa adventures. Percy Tours Update 2.

September and October 2004.
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Saturday 25th Sept. 2004.

The morning starts raining but then slowly clears up to a sunny afternoon.

The town is into the full Whale Festival swing - with my backpackers lodge and every other accommodation bed being taken – there are 50 beds here at Hermanus Backpackers, all taken and I have never seen it so busy. Makes for a lot of fun as you are always bumping into someone new and friendly – and the evening Braai & pool matches in the bar have become legendary for their good spirited competitions.

Spend a few days wondering around the festival with its many craft stalls, mobile sound systems blasting out all sorts of sounds – eat your heart out Notting Hill !!!!! Theres loads of roads closed off and every single piece of available land in the small town centre has suddenly been turned into a temporary car park. The Capetownians have arrived and have totally taken over the place.

I discover that there are some new restaurants and bars, since i was here last (Jan. 2004) – theres an extremely trendy new bar called Shimmis with its 2 x1210's and pumping JBL sound system. Lovely décor, comfy seats and cos its on the 2nd floor & positioned on the cliff top, you get an excellent view of the whales and the people walking around the streets below you.

Lovely evening drive out towards Stanford for a great sunset and visit the 25 km long Grotto beach.

Sometime last week I was offered to go into business with an internet shop and a brand new idea (and yet to be built) mobile internet long-caravan that will be taken to all sorts of out door events – not a bad offer at all but I have other plans – so had to politely decline.

With one of the guys from the Hostel we go Sand Boarding up a huge sand dune, with 6 gorgeous ladies – 3 from Slovenia, 2 South Africans and 1 Austrian. After afew slow down hill attempts and many falling over sessions, we soon get into the knack of how to do it and are at least moving rather than falling onto our butts every 2 second.

The views are fabulous – with the sea and beaches only afew 100 metres away and the Mountain coastline background being stunning.

After 4 hours of zooming downhill we drive to a deep river gorge with high rock cliffs – and proceed to dive & jump into the freezing cold water – very much needed as we are totally covered in sand and very warm. Most refreshing.

The weather has suddenly turn out to be sunny every single day and averages about 25 degrees in the midday heat. Today (thurs) its 27. So slowly the tan is coming along – well seeing as I originally started with that famously pastey colour of “English Grey”, I then need to proceed thro into the white zone, then pink, then salmon pink, then red, then finally slowly increasing darker shapes of brown. I think I have now achieved the off-white colour successfully.

With tanning you can also easily go thro the stages of what the South Africans call
“a Farmers Tan” – tanning on your arms (below the t-shirt sleeve) – above the neck upwards – and your lower legs – with the rest of you being as white as a sheet. A highly comical look I am sure, but that’s one look I will be trying my best to avoid :-)))

Went Paragliding off the local mountain top – about 300 metres high, with absolutely amazing views of the whole of Walkers Bay and at this height you can actually see the whales a lot easier, as from the cliff tops down at sea level you only really see their humps. Even saw one whale do 12 monsterous leaps in a row out of the sea and was able to catch it on film.

Visit Hermanus Golf course, which is a very prime and proper place, with very manicured grass and dress codes that are strictly enforced – so me arriving in flippies, shorts and t-shirt means I was lucky not to get kicked out instantly. In those situations I adopt a strong posh English gents accent of Lordism and pretend I am looking to buy the whole place – soon gets people running for cover :-)))

Zoom over to Cape Town for a day – to look at loads of cars at my friends Anthony dads work – he works for the Govt dept that sells off old Govt vehicles – so over 50 different motors - police cars, ambulances, mini-buses, jeeps, bmw, vw, range rovers, opels, audis, masdas. All sold off at auction once per month at rock bottom prices, with about 200 buyers turning up – only thing is that they don’t allow you to test drive them or even start the engines. UUMMM not ideal for my first car purchase, but one contact well worth bearing in mind for the future.

Looked at loads of houses to buy and rent – unbelievably house prices have gone thro the roof and are up by 20% since Feb 2004 – that’s £10,000 more in 7 months – absolutely outrageous.
Plots of land have tripled or quadrupled – from £7500 or £10000 to £30000 or £40000 – even more outrageous. With the prices continuing to grow and bank interest rates are still set to go down – so anyone wanting to invest in a property over here had better buy NOW.
So I need to get a house immediately but obviously wont be doing that until I get confirmation of my 2 year business visa – same with buying a car – pointless spending money on items when I might not even be let into the country. Immigration takes about 6 to 8 weeks to process, so I haven’t got too long to wait and gives me quite abit of time to look at everything on the market.
Estate agents are weird here – as its such a small and close knit town – every house is on with every agent – most strange. There are afew sole-agency properties but they seem to need to be hunted down.

Have been meeting loads of friendly locals and travellers alike – even bumped into a UK actress who has been in Eastenders and is one of the girls who works in the office in “The Green Wing” that mad comedy series set in a hospital on Channel 4.

Have already sold 3 dvds of people Sand Boarding and Paragliding – so Percy Tours has already started trading – which I am much relieved about as it shows that there are many business opportunities out here especially when I haven’t started trying to get any business yet.

Well its now Thurdsay 30th Sept, and to be honest it has all been so surreal that I am finally here after working so damn hard in UK for 9 months, that I have to keep pinching myself.

Anyway that’s it for now folks.

Cheers and loads of love xxx

Percy "The Sand Dune King"

www.percytours.com

Designer Tours of Hermanus, Cape Town and the Western Cape region.

Wednesday, September 15, 2004

Hermanus, South Africa 1st arrival. Percy Tours Update 1.

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Mid - SEPTEMBER 2004.
Its 4 days since landing in Cape Town and after a mad few days I am now in Hermanus.

OK quick run down of events so far –

Got to Heathrow to be told that they would NOT let me on the plane – “oh bu##er”
This is cos I was being a cheeky swine and only bought a single / one way ticket into South Africa and the immigration in South Africa require a return ticket or exit ticket to be shown upon arrival.
So over I go to the SAA ticket office and buy a £100 single ticket from J’burg to Manzini – Where ??????
This is of course much cheaper than a return ticket to Heathrow and luckily is refundable in UK – so not a disaster really.

Cos I am so early to check in I am able to blag a wing seat with lots of room –
result !! – only to board the plane to find that yes I have a wing seat but I am sitting on the window side with my legs being right up against the emergency exits life-raft that is housed in a huge plastic container that’s part of the door and unmovable – this means my right leg can spread out forward for about 15 feet (thats one long leg!!!) but my left leg has my knee up at my chin – as you can imagine this is not conducive to utmost comfort.

Watched afew movies – Troy - with Brad Pitt taking his clothes off right, left and centre, which you girls will obviously love and probably be rewinding over and over again when you get the video out (good for ½ hour and then boring) / then a great action packed and CGI vampire film with the guy who was Wolverine in X-Men, and the guy who was the rich Count in Moulen Rouge, who plays Dracula. (good plot twists and tons of action and flying Vampires and Werewolves) / then had to see the fabulous Shrek 2 again – hilarious and a modern day classic.

Arrive after little sleep to a much warmer day than the BBC weather website had predicted the day b4 – they said some cloud and 16 degrees – and it turned out to be - no cloud, full-on sunshine and 26 degrees – well bring it on I said, so glad I was in shorts and t-shirt not trousers and a jacket as original planned.

Go to the Hertz counter to get my car – to be given a brand new Opel with only 4000km on the clock and brand new tyres – excellent!!! Zoom off to Cape Town centre to the amazing Ashanti Lodge hostel, chillout for afew hours and then straight down to a restaurant at the Waterfront to met my immigration lady – have a great 2 hour natter to go thro everything. After that I asked her - what are her thoughts to the business plan and the ideas? – which she gives me an immediate 9 ½ out of 10. Well that folks, to me is a very high score and I am therefore all smiles and zoom off immediately to get the very best steak in Cape Town at the Nelsons Eye to semi-celebrate (can’t count those chickens too quickly)

Fall into bed at 8pm and sleep like a log.

Then up early to zoom off to Hermanus, watching out for those pesky mobile police speed cameras that they hide at nearly every straight road (god they are everywhere and I mean everywhere – saw one on a huge tripod in a storm drain with just the lense sticking out at ground level); while also getting stopped with another 20 vehicles at a big police check point, for driving licences checks and quick road worthy check to see if I have 4 wheels on my car. Pass with flying colours and zoom off, telling those pesky coppers to eat my dust buddy!!!!

Arrive at Hermanus Backpackers and get the best room in the place, as I am now a fully signed up resident of the place – huge result!! And coincidentally the rooms called “The Love Chamber” - uuuummmm!!!! not too sure if that’s a good sign - either the management have a few lustful surprises already arranged for me later or its just wishful thinking :-)))

Full-on beer, steak braai and pool thrashing session of the locals by me and a fellow Brit, b4 crashing out for the night.

In a hostel its impossible to have a lie-in if you are a light sleeper like me, cos there is action from 7.30am every morning – people getting collected for Shark Dives or shuttled to the Baz-Bus collection point or the loud reception phone going off every 5 minutes or the cleaner with a hoover smashing into your bedroom door – so up early and straight down to the coast path and there straight infront of me – ½ a mile out to sea are 6 Southern Right Whales splashing about.

I was only able to get afew tail photos so far and realise that wildlife photography is a very time consuming activity b4 the animals actually do anything.

The whole town is in full Whale Festival action, which lasts 4 days, with huge marquees taking up afew car parks – with food, ice cream, steaks & braais roaring and as many beer tents as you can stagger to and from; with a big market that’s selling drums, masks, sculptures, t-shirts and African craftwork. The towns busy but not rammed, although all the accommodation venues are full so there is certainly a few people here.

Ok that’s the lot for the last 3 ½ days – more roving reporting in the next few days.

Percy African “Love Chamber”

www.percytours.com

Designer Tours of Hermanus, Cape Town and the Western Cape region.